The Story Of Amber Labdanum

Reading time: 6 minutes

Jo Malone London is an inherently British brand, each fragrance a scented embodiment of the craftmanship, eclecticism and glorious ingredients the country is renowned for. ‘But every now and again,’ explains Céline Roux, Global Head Of Fragrance at Jo Malone London, ‘we take the opportunity to travel.’ The result of these adventures is Cologne Intense; a line of fragrances inspired by a wealth of precious ingredients and storytelling from across the globe. It is a jaunt that has taken the brand from Japanese forests and Hawaiian mountains to the deserts of Namibia. This time however, the journey begins in southern Spain.

Labdanum is a resinous ingredient that comes from the Cistus ladanifer and Cistus creticus shrub, also known as rockrose, that are native to the Mediterranean region. Their ability to thrive in dry, rocky terrains is why they are also sometimes known as ‘the resin of the rock’. While many people may not have heard of it, labdanum’s rich history goes back thousands of years. In ancient Egypt, it was a revered ingredient in the incense used for ceremonies that took place in sacred temples. During the Middle Ages, it was used in perfumes and medicines. And today, its warm, sweetly ambery scent (which has hints of honey and even leather) is prized by perfumers the world over for its ability to add depth, warmth and longevity to fragrances. ‘The plant,’ Céline explains, ‘creates this resin on the leaves to protect them from the sun. It essentially stops the leaves from burning.’ Wistfully reminiscing on the days she spent with Yann exploring labdanum in the region, Céline recalls the smells, the landscape scattered with orange trees, the source of Andalusia’s famous citrus fruit, and the heat. ‘It was well over 30°C; the sky was blue against all of these dark green plants and the air smelt like resin.’ When it came to choosing the right labdanum to use in the fragrance there were complexities.

‘We spent time with the wonderful producer in the region to really learn about the plant and see how it is grown and cultivated. We smelt an extraction of labdanum which the producer told us was most popularly used. It was quite sharp and had a stronger scent of incense. It was nice, however it was not “the one”. It smelt so different from the labdanum I had smelt that morning (the time of extraction and the way in which it is extracted does make a difference to the final scent) so I was like, “This is not the smell from this morning”.’ To find the right one for Amber Labdanum, Céline and Yann went on to smell at least 10 different extractions. ‘And of course the one I loved and chose – this one was still resinous but was warmer, rounder and a little more ambery – ended up being the most expensive,’ says Céline with a wry laugh. However, her uncompromising approach to choosing the right ingredients to create Jo Malone London’s world-class scents is something exacting Céline is unapologetic about. ‘I said to Yann, “That’s the one I want”.’ Teamed with the sensuality of amber, the warmth of vanilla, the woodiness of roasted oak and the surprising freshness found in Andalusian bitter orange, the result, a rich, evocative resinous scent, is proof that waiting for the right one was absolutely worth it. ‘I love it,’ says Céline unequivocally with a smile.